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Petite histoire du motif argyle
Je portais un pull argyle dans un de mes derniers looks et comme il s'agit d'un motif écossais et que le Argyle Day a eu lieu il y a quelques jours (le 8 janvier), il fallait évidemment que je vous en parle plus en détail.
J'avais déjà commencé à faire mes recherches lorsque j'ai reçu un mail de Susanna. Susanna est franco-italienne et pigiste de formation. Afin de montrer ses qualités rédactionnelles qui lui permettront de signer un contrat de travail de journaliste chez Euronews, elle rédige des articles sur divers sujets pour des blogs, des journaux, etc.
Elle me demande dans son mail si elle pouvait écrire un billet pour moi. "Pas de problème, ça tombe bien, je vous propose de faire une présentation du motif argyle", lui répondis-je.
Elle accepte et voici sa contribution:
Le Tissu Argyle
Le tissu argyle est depuis de nombreuses années un motif très populaire qui semble ne pas souffrir de la mode changeante, restant un fidèle complice de nos pulls et chaussettes.
Bien que les origines du motif Argyle se soient perdues à travers les siècles, l’hypothèse la moins contestée est celle prenant racine en Écosse. En effet, ce motif intemporel serait lié au clan Campbell qui était installé dans le Comté d’Argyll en Écosse qui aurait arboré ce motif sur ses tartans. Bien que certains doutes subsistent quant à la véracité de cette origine, notamment à cause des orthographes divergentes, il est très largement admis que l’Écosse est bien le point de départ de ce tissu dont la présence n’a jamais souffert des tendances éphémères de la mode.
L’explosion de la diffusion de ce motif diamant est liée au très grand succès européen rencontré par le chandail de la marque de luxe britannique Pringle of Scotland dans les années 1920. Edward VIII, duc de Windsor, le grand fashionista de l'époque, adopte aussitôt ce vêtement ainsi que des chaussettes argyle fabriquées par la marque pour jouer au golf. Il est ensuite copié par d'autres golfeurs et contribue ainsi à la popularisation de ce motif écossais (phrase ajoutée par Tartangirl).
Tenue de golfeur des année 1920
Ce n’est qu’en 1949 que l’argyle franchit l’Atlantique avec le retour du président de Brooks Brothersd’un tournoi de golf en Écosse, conscient de son potentiel auprès des clients américains. Il n’a jamais cessé depuis de conquérir le cœur et la garde-robe d’un large public, enfants comme adultes ainsi que des célébrités du monde entier.
Carine Roitfeld en Balenciaga Amy Winehouse en Fred Perry
Fort de son succès mondial continu et incontesté, le motif Argyle est toujours très recherché, en conséquence il y a une forte demande pour les couturiers et couturières qualifiés maîtrisant le travail de différents tissus dont l’Argyle. Il suffit de faire une recherche sur Internet pour constater qu’il y a de nombreuses propositions d'emploi en France ou à l'étranger, recherchant des couturières versatiles possédant le savoir-faire nécessaire pour réaliser des ouvrages avec ce motif légendaire.
Rédaction: Susanna
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
J'aimerais ajouter quelques infos supplémentaires aux propos de Susanna:
Motif intemporel, l'argyle a traversé les temps et a connu une vraie renaissance dans les années 1980 avec la tendance BCBG.
Couverture Vogue US des années 1980
Outre Pringle of Scotland, c'est une entreprise allemande appartenant au roupe américai Burlington qui s'approporie le motif en 1975 pour la fabrication des chaussettes. Elle l'utilise pour son logo et le rend populaire d'abord en Allemagne puis à travers toute l'Europe.
Je me rappelle très bien que porter des chaussettes Burlington avec le petit bouton sur le côté était vraiment une des grandes tendance dans les années 80 en Allemagne. Encore aujourd'hui Burlington reste associé à l'argyle.
Le boutoon Burlington
L'argyle étant étroitement lié au look preppy, ce n'est pas une surprise que nous le retrouvions porté par les personnages au style vestimentaire néo-BCBG des séries Gossip Girl et Glee.
Blair et Chuck dans Gossip Girl
Rachel Berry de Glee
Blaine Anderson (à droite) de Glee (gilet de Brooks Brothers)
Moins utilisé par les grands couturiers que le tartan ou le pied-de-poule, l'argyle continue à être le motif iconique pour les vêtements de golf et fait de temps en temps son apparition dans les défilés de mode.
Ralph Lauren
Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2013
Pringle of Scotland, dont le mannequin écossais Tilda Swinton est l'égérie, utilise toujours le motif dans ses collections et le met au goût du jour en le déstructurant ou en l'utilisant subtilement sur les pulls et gilets.
Tilda Swinton pour Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland Resort 2012
Pringle of Scotland SS 2013 Pringle of Scotland A/W 2013
Pringle of Scotland Spring 2014 Pringle of Scotland Pre Fall 2014
.
Tags : Argyle, Ecosse, Clan Campbell, Pringle of Scotland, Burlington, Gossip Girl, Glee
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J'adore ce motif, je le trouve vraiment élégant. Ton article est vraiment très complet et très intéressant. Bises :)
J'ai un peu de mal à aller vers ce motif, cependant j'ai trouvé deux modèles jolis dans ta sélection!
@ Lana: Pas des soucis, je ne laisse pas non plus de commentaire à chaque fois que je passe sur les blogs ! Merci pour tes mots et ton encouragement qui me font vraiment très plaisir. Quand jai décidé de consacrer mon blog aux motif britanniques je me suis effectivement demandé si ça allait intéresser quelqu'un et je suis tellement contente de voir tous vos commentaires après chaque article et je suis encore plus contente quand je lis la phrase "J'ai appris quelque chose". Après, il faut dire que ça tombait bien que les motifs sont la grande tendance de cet automne/hiver. Bisous.
@Ann'so M. : On te verra donc bientôt en pull argyle, associé au cuir ? Bises.
@Riff: L'argyle serait donc hypnotisant :D ? En tout cas, c'est vrai qu'il ne passe pas inaperçu, surtout dans sa version traditionnelle bien colorée. Pour le col en V, je pense qu'ils posent le tissu de sorte qu'il y ait juste une rangée de carreaux au milieu qui descend et puis ils coupent le col tout simplement (on voit bien sur le pull du golfeur)
ce motif me fait cogiter, par rapport au col en V qui accompagne généralement le motif. on voit bien qu'ils'évase, s'écarte, au niveau de l'encolure, les carreaux se déforment légèrement. ils font une simple entaille verticale dans le tissus, pour créer le col en V? :D
ça a l'air de rien mais c'est chiant! l'autre jour dans une série un mec portait ce genre de pull et j'étais tellement focalisé sur son pull que j'ai rien suivi de ce qu'il disait!
merci pour ton article !! et pour tes photos qui nous montrent bien comment mixer tout ça et se faire un look moderne!! je suis fan.
bises
Ann'so M
Coucou miss,
Désolée de ne pas commenter chacun de tes articles que je regarde régulièrement.
Je tiens à te dire que je trouve ton univers absolument fabuleux. Tu as réussi à faire fédérer autant de lecteurs/trices autour d'un sujet assez spécifique à la base, à savoir un imprimé, maintenant on est toutes mordues du tartan, c'est vraiment exceptionnel. On sent ta passion pour cette matière, ta connaissance ultra pointue, je dis chapeau, continues comme ça.
Bisous et au plaisir de te lire.
Lana
http://goodstylelittlemoney.com/
Merci Lilly ! Oui, ce motif a effectivement besoin qu'on le réinvente pour le sortir de sa connotation BCBG. Céline l'a fait avec le tartan et a bien réussi. Time will tell si on connaîtra une vague argyle comme celle qu'on a vue avec le tartan cette année. Bises.
Je ne savais même pas que ce motif s'appelait ainsi. J'en apprends toujours en venant ici ;)
J'ai sans doute en tête une image trop BCBG ou preppy pour m'y intéresser, cependant, je dois avouer que les dernières images des collections Pringle of Scotland donnent envie: j'aime beaucoup la manière dont ce motif est déstructuré, repensé, et justement pas pris au premier degré.
Chouette article ;)
Bises
Je ne savais pas que ce ce motif s'appelait ainsi! Merci c'est toujours très intéressant et très précis!
@ Sylvie. Merci ! J'aime bien aussi, surtout dans sa version moderne comme chez Hilfiger et Pringle. Bisous.
@ Titite: Oui, j'ai lu qu'on l'appelait souvent motif Burlington. Moi, par contre j'appelle plutôt les chaussettes "des Burlington" et le motif "Karomuster" (Karo = carreau en allemand comme sur la carte de jeu, muster = motif). C'est vrai que c'est grossissant, vaut mieux ne pas faire un bonnet D ou +.
je ne savais pas comment s'appelait ce motif, je l'ai toujours appelé burlington ! merci donc pour la redécouverte.
ce motif est pour moi associé à 100 % au golf.
je n'aime pas vraiment sur moi, car c'est un peu grossissant, mais c'est très beau. j'adore les looks chanel.
Oui, le motif très toujours très courant pour les chaussettes (surtout pour hommes) et on en a aussi à la maison. Bises.
1devMardi 21 Janvier 2014 à 20:33j'aime beaucoup ce post ca m'a appris des truc et c'est vraie qui n'as pas un vêtement avec ce genre de motif ne serait ce que chaussette comme ca chez soi ?!
bis
http://devsnochaos.blogspot.fr/
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Bienvenue chez Tartangirl ! Amoureuse de l'Ecosse, de tartan et de tweed, je présente sur ce blog des looks, des infos et des idées shopping à l'accent So British !
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